Męskim okiem

Well before Andy Warhol’s rise to the pinnacle of Pop Art, he created and exhibited seductive drawings celebrating male beauty. Andy Warhol Love, Sex, & Desire: Drawings 1950-1962 features over three hundred drawings rendered primarily in ink on paper portraying young men, many of them nude, some sexually charged, and occasionally adorned with whimsical black hearts and delightful embellishments. They lounge or preen, proud of or even bored by their beauty, while the artist sketches them, rapt. They rarely engage with their keen observer, and likewise Warhol’s focus is on their form, their erotic qualities, and unbridled sexuality. If his subjects are content to revel in their attractiveness, so too is Warhol. His confident hand illustrates a multitude of colorful characters, yet also reveals much about this enigmatic artist.

Warhol was already a booming commercial illustrator when he exhibited studies from this body of work at the Bodley Gallery on New York’s Upper East Side in 1956.He mistakenly saw these illustrations as his way of breaking into the New York art scene, underestimating the pervading homophobia of the time. While he never saw through his plan to publish the drawings as a monograph, he did produce more than a thousand elegant, seemingly effortless drawings from life. This volume finally brings his project to fruition by gathering his most striking images, published here for the first time in a comprehensive book and chosen by the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts. Edited and featuring an introduction by the Foundation’s Michael Dayton Hermann, and essays by Warhol biographer Blake Gopnik and art critic Drew Zeiba. The inclusion of poems by James Baldwin, Thom Gunn, Harold Norse, Essex Hemphill and Allen Ginsberg create moments of introspection, which expand on the themes and moods present in the drawings.

In style, the drawings evoke the sketches of Jean Cocteau and even Matisse: highly distilled and sure of line, yet loose. The sly voyeurism, meanwhile, is entirely Warhol’s own, and even the most risqué drawings contain a kind of droll humor—a sense of ironic detachment—that would become a Warhol trademark. His confident hand illustrates a multitude of colorful characters, yet also reveals much about this enigmatic artist.

Czy mianem „słabej płci” na pewno powinniśmy określać dziś kobiety? System edukacji promuje uczennice, kryzys rodziny i psychiczna nieobecność ojców pozbawia chłopców ważnego wzorca. Wirtualna rzeczywistość jest dla młodych mężczyzn substytutem relacji, pornografia nieudolnie zastępuje edukację seksualną. Czy kobiety, coraz śmielej realizujące swoje cele i osiągające sukcesy w wielu sferach życia, znajdują w dzisiejszych mężczyznach godnych siebie partnerów? Czy matki, ojcowie, partnerki, nauczyciele, i wreszcie sami mężczyźni, mogą przeciwdziałać upadkowi męskości? „Gdzie ci mężczyźni” to książka, którą Philip Zimbardo i Nikita Coulombe przygotowali specjalnie na rynek polski.

Pierwsza wojna światowa zapoczątkowała kryzys tradycyjnie pojmowanej męskości: hekatomba spowodowana użyciem nieznanych wcześniej śmiercionośnych broni pozbawiła uczestniczących w niej mężczyzn aury bohaterów, cykliczne nawroty kryzysów gospodarczych pozbawiały pracowników poczucia godności, upowszechnianie się postaw konformistycznych osłabiało zamiłowanie do ryzykownych przygód. Postępy w dziedzinie równości płci, zdobycze feminizmu podważały odwieczne męskie przywileje i prawo do ich egzekwowania przemocą.

Osiemnaścioro autorów analizuje na wielu płaszczyznach przyczyny, przejawy i skutki tego kryzysu.

Man in Focus A gallery of men from photography’s maestro “The way men are seen in photography, in fashion, and the way that men look at pictures of themselves has changed in recent years. It is a subject that has come into focus: The masculine image, a man's personal style, changing attitudes to the male face and body.” — Mario Testino From Rio to London, Cusco to Seville, Mario Testino is renowned for his free-spirited chronicles of dress and demeanor. In SIR the influential photographer presents over 300 photographs in his search to define the allure of men. Featuring an essay by Pierre Borhan, an interview with Patrick Kinmonth, and many previously unpublished works from Testino’s archive of thousands, this book traces the evolution of male identity over the past three decades. Costume, tradition, gender play, portraiture, photojournalism, and fashion collide as Testino observes masculinity in all its modern manifestations: through the dandy and the gentleman, the macho and the fey, the world-famous face to the unknown passerby. Every photograph represents a unique point of view, and a new visual connection between photographer and sitter. With Josh Hartnett for VMAN (2005), Testino evokes the fall of Helmut Berger in the abyss of Luchino Visconti’s The Damned. Studies of Brad Pitt, George Clooney, Jude Law and Colin Firth are as candid as they are curious. David Beckham, David Bowie, Mick Jagger and Keith Richards feature for the courage they have taken in redefining male identity. Through a kaleidoscope of guises, these portraits define a period in which men’s changing role, style and appearance has never escaped Testino’s eye and impeccable intuition.

Immersing readers in the world of men’s fashion, The Rebel's Wardrobe explores the surprising origins of our everyday staple items and how they became timeless classics. From the plain white T-shirt developing into the everyday hero, to the leather jacket cementing its place as a global icon or the chino being originally produced for military purposes, this modern menswear lexicon uses fashion to look at pop culture over the last 100 years, making links between seemingly disparate groups from military to sports. Join Denimhunters, the internet’s premier denim and heritage menswear experts as they take you through a beautiful archive and contemporary photography, showcasing the history of iconic men’s clothing.